An important ceremonial weaving from the Batak people of Lake Toba in northern Sumatra, this ulos ragidup is their pattern of life cloth. It is the most significant of Batak tribal textiles, a powerful protector and soul cloth central to the rites of birth, marriage and death. Although the ragidup appears always to be made of five parts--two side panels, a middle panel and two end panels--the colors vary, and the end pieces have greatly differing patterns, which are said to predict the future of the owner, and can be "read" by certain tribal members. While textile scholars agree on the cloth's cultural significance, they differ about when and to whom it is presented. Sylvia Fraser-Lu in her book "Handwoven Textiles of Southeast Asia" says that it is presented to a woman during the last months of her pregnancy.
John Gillow in his book "Traditional Indonesian Textiles" says, however, that it is presented at weddings to the mother of the groom by the father of the bride to confirm that the two families are inextricably linked. Perhaps it is used both ways but there is general agreement that this beautifully handwoven piece is central to the lives of the Batak people. This one from the Lake Toba Batak is from the mid to late 20th century and is in excellent condition with only minimal fading to the purple panel on the right side. Dimensions: length 72" (183 cm), width 29" (74 cm).